Putting femininity in the spotlight, the Spring-Summer 2023 Collection changes the play of proportions, using emphasis as of a figure of style, where the infinitely large and infinitely small come together in one silhouette. The Maison’s signatures that have become ingrained in Louis Vuitton’s DNA take on a disproportionate quality, becoming integral to the collection’s narrative. Finding this new balance in scale, zippers and snaps are outsized, clasps become belt buckles, and a scrap of leather is turned into an outfit.
Zooming in on elements of a woman’s wardrobe, proportions and scales are reinvented, creating silhouettes where the details reign over. Belts printed using a 3D effect take on a trompe l’oeil effect, while folds of a kilt are enlarged and become flat pleated dresses, adding a playful and unique aspect. Nicolas Ghesquière also uses embroidery that simulates a macro tweed, created using a 3D scanner and blowing up each image to highlight every thread and its texture. Using emphasis as a figure of style, a selection of bags take on disproportionate details, while others are recreated with dramatic proportions.
For next season, Louis Vuitton has offered up a whole new perspective. But while accents have been exaggerated – everything from locks to labels, clasps, buckles, pockets, popper buttons, zips and even monogrammed clutch bags were given the LV supersize treatment – this was no sartorial parody.
Silhouettes were recognisably Vuitton, the colour palette was, if anything, relatively restrained, and prints were tasteful and in moderation. What Nicolas Ghesquière’s SS23 offering served up was a true masterclass in design; creating covetable classics with such clever contemporary twists that they’ll undeniably be a global viral phenomenon the minute they hit the shelves.